Following the route of early pioneers to the gold diggings, Jon Miller sets off on a bike ride from Woodend to Melbourne, unearthing tales of bushrangers and ghosts along the way.
The Coach and Horses Inn in Clarkefield, northwest of Melbourne, is one of the most haunted buildings in Australia. Built in 1857, this historic pub was once the first coach stop of the Cobb and Co service to the gold diggings, but is now famous for its ghost tales, including that of a young girl who was reputedly thrown down a well by her father. The pub, which is also known for its fine food, is our designated lunch stop on a delightful ride from Woodend to Melbourne, meandering through some of Victoria’s historic gold mining towns.
At Southern Cross Station other passengers stare as 12 brightly dressed riders weave their heavily laden bikes through the crowds. I’m riding with members of the Melbourne Bicycle Touring Club. We are a diverse group of people with a common interest in bike riding. Today I’m pleased to see new members Andy and Julia back for another ride and Michelle who is participating on her first club ride. They ask me why I am carrying two very full panniers for a day trip and I reply that it is ballast. The older club members roll their eyes; they have seen it before.
The hour-long train trip gives us plenty of time to chat and reacquaint with old friends, and by the time we get to Woodend we are ready to ride. The history of the region is apparent as soon as we get off the train. Woodend Station opened in 1861, while Keating’s Hotel in High Street was also a Cobb and Co coach stop. Early pioneers on their way from Melbourne to the goldfields of Castlemaine and Bendigo followed a route through Clarkefield, Riddells Creek, Macedon and Woodend. These villages sprang to life to service the needs of the miners and flourished further with the coming of the railway.
Our ride begins on the old Calder Highway heading towards Macedon and we ride through the Black Forest Range, which was once an infamous hunting ground for bushrangers. It is likely that Chinaman Jim, another ghost of the Coach and Horses Inn, was tracked through this forest as he returned from the diggings. He was murdered in the stables behind the pub for his newly found gold.
Since the opening of the Woodend bypass this road sees little traffic and combined with its wide shoulders, is a very relaxing place to ride. I enjoy being out in the countryside, taking in the sights and sounds of the bush, and make the most of a downhill section. A generous tailwind also assists and soon we are freewheeling into Macedon for morning tea at the delightful Sitka Cafe. We chat and enjoy the warmth of spring sunshine while devouring home-made cakes and sipping freshly brewed coffee.
Soon we’re back on our bikes, riding through rolling farmland around the southern foothills of the Macedon Range with Mount Macedon looming in the background. The messmate and pepper gum forest stretches down to the road, almost surrounding us. The shade of the trees combined with fresh early morning mountain air make for an invigorating ride and I’m happy to emerge from the forest and feel the sun’s warming rays.
It’s essentially a downhill ride from here to Riddells Creek and there’s barely a need to pedal, thanks to the continuing tailwind. We stop briefly to admire a 150-year-old bluestone railway bridge, before continuing on to lunch in Clarkefield.
The Coach and Horses Inn is a magnificent building and equally remarkable inside. Historic pictures take pride of place on the walls and stuffed deer heads are mounted above red brick fireplaces. Knick-knacks decorate the bar, including a toy fox dressed in the regalia of the hunt. I sense the history within these walls and can’t help but wonder if Chinaman Jim is watching us. Luckily, we encounter very little of the supernatural, only generous offerings of fine food. There’s a grilled seafood platter, the traditional parma and many other options available. We all find something to our liking and enjoy a leisurely lunch before getting back on the bikes.
Soon after Clarkefield we tackle the only real hill of the day – and it’s a stinker. The road drops sharply into the valley formed by Emu Creek and then climbs just as steeply for a kilometre or more. We all struggle, perhaps from over-indulgence at lunch, but no-one is prepared to give in and walk, and soon, it’s back to gently rolling hills. There are large gum trees along the roadside and occasionally we see beautiful historic farm buildings. We resist the turnoffs to local wineries, such as the Longview Creek Vineyard near Sunbury – we’ll leave them for another day.
After the quiet solitude of traffic-free rural roads, the outskirts of Melbourne jolt us back to the busyness of the city. I reflect on the ride: spending a day with friends riding through the countryside, learning something about local history and enjoying a fine meal. Life doesn’t get much better.
Getting there
Trains to / from Woodend run several times daily. For information visit V/Line.
Further information
The Melbourne Bicycle Touring Club Inc (MBTC) is based in Melbourne, Victoria, and they have rides and other events every weekend.
Sitka Foodstore and Cafe is located at Shop 4, 23 Victoria Street, Macedon and is open Wednesday to Monday from 8am-5pm.
The Coach and Horses Inn is located at 50 Station Street, Clarkefield.
Jon Miller has been riding bikes of different shapes and sizes for twenty years. He likes all forms of cycling – especially touring – and is a current member and past president of Melbourne Bicycle Touring Club
Photos: Jon Miller and Macedon Ranges Shire Council