The beach beckons in New Zealand’s sunniest corner. Alex Crisp packed up the family to ride the new trail to get there.
Kids love adventures. Rio and Mia buzzed with excitement as we loaded our bikes and donned helmets to explore the Great Taste Trail.
We planned to ride 69km along the coastal section of the trail. The journey began in Nelson, which would soon be named the sunniest place in Aotearoa (New Zealand) for another year.
Our destination was Kaiteriteri, one of New Zealand’s favourite beaches. We rode out of our driveway and the adventure began!
We settled into the gentle rhythm of cycle-touring as we followed Nelson’s railway reserve. It is over 57 years since the last timetabled train arrived in Nelson. And while that’s bad news for train travellers, the loss of the railway has become a gain for bike riders with the route providing a gentle gradient for the first hill of our trip.
We ventured along at an easy pace in anticipation of the three days of riding ahead. Mia noticed a playground and before we knew it we were indulging in the swings and flying-fox. In a car we would never have noticed this little place. Even if we had seen the park it would have been long gone before we considered stopping.
It took an offer of snacks to lure Rio and Mia from the swings and flying-fox back onto the bikes. We had set up snack holders by the kids’ bike seats. Like horses with nose bags they contentedly munched away as we headed past Nelson airport. The airport not only looks after commercial aeroplanes, it also provides bike assembly stations and serves as a gateway to the Great Taste Trail.
Beyond here the trail is flat and follows the edge of the Waimea Estuary. This huge expanse of wetlands represents the largest enclosed estuary in the South Island. It is home to many migratory birds of international significance. The efforts of volunteers were evidenced by the presence of bird boxes and native plantings. Rounding a bend we found over 50 volunteers completing a section of boardwalk for the bike trail.
We were soon greeted by an elegant suspension bridge across the Waimea River. A number of these bridges have been constructed so bike riders can visit scenic areas and avoid narrow road bridges. The suspension bridge was not officially opened but it was already being appreciated by path users. Passing cyclists shared relaxed smiles prompted by the pleasure of riding in a car-free environment.
Rabbit Island is a favourite destination amongst residents of the town of Tasman. It is a place to enjoy the beach, have a barbecue and socialise with family and friends. We stopped in the park and unloaded our kai (food) for a picnic. We had only ridden about 20km but we felt like we were a long way from home. Lunch was a simple affair but tasted good after a morning in the saddle.
After a ride through the forestry plantations of Rabbit Island we reached a ferry terminal. Put simply it was just a sign, bike rack and track to the Waimea Inlet which separated Rabbit Island from Mapua. We were in luck, as the Mapua Ferry was making its way across the channel.
Rio galloped up the gangplank and peered out the windows while we rolled the bikes gently on board so as not to wake Mia who was asleep in her bike seat. The ferry crossing was only brief but provided a vital link in the trail and a highlight for Rio. We disembarked in Mapua amongst its collection of craft stores and cafes.
A short doddle from Mapua and we arrived at Ruby Bay. Mia was awake now and marvelled at the gypsy trucks, motor homes and family tents at McKee Reserve, our camp spot for the night. The reserve complimented our simple approach, providing all that we needed in a clean, cheap-and-cheerful manner. We set up our tents within metres of the playground and beach—what more could a child ask for?
The next morning we were awake with the birds. A predator control programme has been in place around the reserve and the hillside was filled with birdsong. We had breakfast in the playground and welcomed the morning sun on the beach. We were travelling light for this journey—Rio and Mia had been limited to an equal-sized bag each for personal items—so it did not take long to load the bikes.
The ride to Jester House cafe was along a quiet and pleasant country road. Rio tucked in to a fluffy (babycino) and a lavender shortcake amidst the fairytale gardens. But Mia could not relax until we had fed the eels. The Aporo stream flows past Jester House and is home to tuna (New Zealand long-finned eel).
The eels in this stream have become accustomed to visitors and can be fed by hand which Rio and Mia loved—though the eels didn’t get much food. Mia and Rio would edge close to the stream and extend their arms holding the food, but leapt backward each time the eels approached their toes.
All fuelled up on delicious cafe fare, we set our sights for Motueka. On arrival we made our way down to the waterfront. The trail followed the beachfront past a wrecked pirate ship, which was Rio’s assessment of the wreck of the Janie Seddon. The real story is not as dramatic however. The Janie Seddon served out of Wellington Harbour for the Royal New Zealand Navy during both World Wars, and then made her way to the Motueka Trawling Company. The ship was holed by her own anchor when the tide was out and despite attempts to salvage the wreck, the ship remains in place as a Motueka landmark.
As our cycle-tour had removed us from the bustle of the main roads, our route through Motueka revealed a very pleasant side of a town we had often seen while driving through. And then it happened—the scream of an emergency! “Horsey!” exclaimed Rio. Both bikes braked sharply to a standstill. Rio was distraught. Where was his faithful stuffed companion? We surveyed the road behind us. Thankfully, there he was lying lonely and forlorn on the bitumen. The bicycle sirens sounded and Horsey was retrieved unharmed. Everyone breathed again.
We continued on our journey past the extensive parks and stylish homes that grace the waterfront. Our camping accommodation for the evening was somewhat simpler but more than hit the spot. Fearons Bush has been a camping reserve since not long after the Second World War. It is now home to the Motueka Top 10 Holiday Park which has won a number of awards. This place was paradise for our kids. A child friendly pool, sprawling playground, jumping pillow and family bathroom facilities all set amongst mature native trees made this a very enjoyable place to end the day.
When the Great Taste Trail is finished it will be possible to continue up the Motueka Valley and complete a loop over 160km long back to Nelson. That adventure will have to wait until next time. We turned our bikes toward Riwaka and appreciated the bike trail, an offshoot of the Great Taste Trail, as it led us over the Motueka River. Roadside stalls tempted us with berries and a variety of local produce as we rode through some of the region’s orchards.
The toughest riding of the trip was the rolling hills into Kaiteriteri near the end of our journey. But the end was in sight. The promise of a swim, lunch and ice cream kept us all going. We rolled down the last hill, parked our bikes on the beach and changed into our togs. The kids quickly made new friends and were soon busy exploring and building sand castles. The emerald water lapped lazily at the golden sands.
A little while later it was Christmas Day.
“Merry Christmas, Dad!” Rio and Mia were bouncing around excitedly. In fact, it was two weeks since our riding adventure. I opened my present. “Heart of Biking, Nelson–Tasman, New Zealand,” the certificate read. “Thank you for supporting two metres of Tasman’s Great Taste Trail.” My family had purchased (virtually) two metres of the trail for us to enjoy now and in the future. What more could a dad ask for?
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