Rolling hills, misty mornings and country markets: as Karen Graham discovers, the Great Southern Rail Trail can be the perfect winter ride.
Planning a social bike ride in the midst of a Victorian winter is a risky proposition, especially when the destination is South Gippsland. It might just be a coincidence, but every time I visit this region the heavens open to gift the countryside with torrential rain and gale force winds. Today, as we drive from Melbourne to Leongatha, there’s a light misty rain and fog so thick that visibility is difficult on the winding hilly roads. I’m fervently hoping the weather will improve before I leave the warmth of the car and start riding.
The Great Southern Rail Trail runs 49km from Leongatha to Foster, through rich farmlands and forests and via the appealing country towns of Koonwarra, Meeniyan and Fish Creek. You can ride the entire length in either direction, but if you start in Leongatha there is the added advantage of downhill gradients at the start and finish of the ride.
Miraculously, the fog begins to lift and sunshine and blue skies greet us as we arrive in Leongatha. It’s still very brisk – about seven degrees – but there’s no wind and it’s about as close to perfect as I could’ve imagined. Today’s ride is a family affair with my two nieces, Erin and Michaela, and my sister, Lynn, joining me. We also have a support team – my mum and my brother Peter, with his dog Sasha in tow. They plan to meet up with us at various points along the route, saving us the hassle of a car shuffle (which is necessary if you want to ride the trail from end to end).
There is some chaos as we unload the bikes and discover a couple of flat tyres, but after some quick action with the pump – and a silent prayer that they stay up for the duration – we set off on our ride. It’s an easy beginning and the first eight kilometres to Koonwarra are so beautiful that I want to turn around and do it all again. This is rich dairy farmland and we ride past cattle grazing in the paddocks. The rolling hills are so lushly green that it reminds me of Ireland, while autumnal colours still grace many of the trees. Occasionally a light breeze gathers some of the remaining leaves to scatter them across the trail.
Dairy farming has thrived in this area since the 1870s and the railway from Dandenong to Yarram, via Leongatha and Foster, opened in 1892 after lobbying from local residents. Existing towns grew larger and new ones appeared as farmers began to transport dairy products and other produce to markets in Melbourne. Timber and coal industries also flourished, with coal from this area used to run the entire fleet of steam locomotives on the Victorian Railway during the 1930s and 1940s.
Between 1981 and 1991, passenger train services were withdrawn, re-instated, and then withdrawn again. Freight services finally ceased in 1992 (100 years after the railway’s initial opening) and soon afterwards local residents began lobbying for the creation of a rail trail. The section between Leongatha and Koonwarra was the first to open in the late 1990s.
While Leongatha is South Gippsland’s commercial centre, Koonwarra is a charming little village renowned for its fine food and wine and its promotion of sustainable living. In 2005, Koonwarra became the first ‘Waste Wise Village’ in Australia and in 2006 they won the ‘Tidy Towns Award’. The community promotes the use of organic foods, innovative health and wellbeing services, and is plastic bag free.
Purely by chance our ride coincides with the South Gippsland Farmers’ Market (held in Koonwarra on the first Saturday of each month), so we head up to Memorial Park to join the happy crowd milling around the stalls. There’s fresh-baked bread, hazelnuts, goat’s milk products, plants, organic fruit and vegetables, and lavender products for sale. It’s tempting to grab a coffee and linger here but we still have 41km to ride so reluctantly leave the market behind.
The Great Southern Rail Trail is extremely well maintained and there are plenty of places to stop for food and drink, as well as toilet blocks placed at regular intervals along the route. The only drawback is the incomplete section between Koonwarra and Minns Road (due for completion at the same time as a scheduled road upgrade in 2011). Here the route diverts to the road for about three kilometres and riders need to take care as the shoulder is quite narrow and at times completely disappears. The only other option is to explore the trail in sections or shorten the route by riding from Meeniyan to Foster (making it a 32km ride).
But we are happy to ride on the road and it’s a very picturesque part of our journey. There are great views across the Koonwarra Wetlands and the Black Spur Creek valley. At the top of a hill we stop to admire the view of the old trestle bridges – this will definitely be a beautiful section of the trail when it is finally completed.
The re-entry to the rail trail is via a fairly steep and roughly graded path, which takes me by surprise. I stop suddenly and almost plant my foot on top of an echidna. The creature gets as big a fright as I do, curling up into a ball and digging furiously in its attempts to get away from me. It’s the first time I’ve seen an echidna in the wild and all I can see now are its impressive defensive spines. I count myself lucky that my foot didn’t connect and depart quickly to let it know I mean no harm.
Before long we arrive at the new Pumphouse Bridge, which spans the Tarwin River and flood plains. The steel bridge has been built in the same style of the original wooden trestle bridge that remains standing alongside it. On the other side of the bridge I see Peter striding towards us with an excited Sasha straining against her lead. We meander along with them until we reach Meeniyan. We take another short break to explore this cute little town with its cafes, art and craft galleries, and antique and jewellery stores.
For the next 19km to Fish Creek the trail is pleasantly undulating as it rises up to Stony Creek and Buffalo. We ride through sections of native forest before entering the foothills of the Hoddle Range where we have to work a bit harder up a gradual climb. It’s still a relatively easy ride though as the trail detours away from the bigger hills. That’s the beauty of most rail trails; they are built in abandoned railway corridors that typically avoid steep hills and this makes them perfect for all levels of riders. Most of our group have not ridden 49km before so getting to the end is challenging enough.
By the time we arrive in Fish Creek we are ready for our lunch break. Our support team have kindly laid out our pre-prepared picnic in the undercover barbeque area, which is adjacent to a picturesque park. I dig into sandwiches and zucchini quiche, and enjoy a steaming mug of thermos coffee. There are plenty of other food options available in Fish Creek including pub or cafe meals. At the distinctive Orange Roughy cafe you can indulge in a hearty pot pie or burger. It’s also worth taking a stroll around town to check out all the fishy memorabilia – street signs, fish-themed shops and park benches. There’s a blue-mosaic seat featuring a fish, as well as a giant mullet perched on the roof of the Promontory Gate Hotel/Motel (also known as the Fishy Pub).
Eventually we decide to make tracks, with only 13km left to ride. The sun has disappeared behind some ominous-looking clouds and we are keen to finish the ride before the rain comes. It’s a four kilometre climb to Hoddle Summit where we have great views across the farmlands to the coast and Wilsons Promontory National Park. From here it’s an easy ride – nine glorious kilometres of freewheeling as we literally roll into Foster. A light drizzle begins to fall as we secure the bikes to the racks and by the time we are back in the car and heading home, a torrential downpour has set in.
Without a doubt the Great Southern Rail Trail is one of Victoria’s best rides; but take a rain jacket just in case.
Map: Explore Australia Map – Great Southern Rail Trail
Location: Leongatha is 130km south-east of Melbourne in South Gippsland
Distance: 49km (one way)
Start Point: Holt Street, Leongatha
Finish Point: Station Road, Foster
Surface: Good-quality, hard-packed gravel
Kind of bike: Suitable for all bikes
Scenery: Farmland, remnant forest, coastal views, villages
Key Attractions: Leongatha, Koonwarra, Meeniyan, Fish Creek, Foster
Difficulty: Easy
Ideal: Singles, couples, families, retirees (all ages)
