Riding Like A Flandrian – A Dream Trip To Belgium

Ask any keen rider to name a country famous for bike riding, and most will likely say France or Italy. But for true cycling purists, the ultimate destination is Belgium – specifically, the storied region of Flanders.

Sure, France, Spain, and Italy may dominate the conversation as the world’s go-to cycling hotspots, but for die-hard fans, Belgium is the sport’s beating heart. And without question, its main arteries that crisscross the rolling terrain of Flanders.

Flanders, the Dutch-speaking region in northern Belgium, is notorious for roads that push cyclists to their limits. Cobbles – like the jagged boulders Stuart O’Grady and Matt Hayman lifted after winning the brutal Paris-Roubaix – form the foundation of the challenge.

Ancient, uneven, and more like rounded rocks than smooth blacktop, these cobbled climbs test even the fittest and most seasoned riders. Often narrow, steep, and winding, they demand skill, power, and sheer determination.

Revered, respected, and known as ‘Flandriens,’ local cyclists are relentless, hardened by their terrain and a steady diet of grit and determination – washed down with Belgian beer of up to 10% ABV.

Riding Like a Flandrien

To ‘Ride like a Flandrien’ is to embrace suffering – to ride with unwavering commitment, whether in summer’s warmth or winter’s bone-chilling damp.

The Merckx Connection

No Flandrien is more legendary than Eddy Merckx. On July 6, 2019, riders in the 106th Tour de France rolled out of Brussels to commemorate 50 years since Merckx, cycling’s greatest icon, first conquered the race.

Eddy sent them off, and we were there to witness the grandeur. A few days later, we did what every true cycling fan must do at least once – ride in the sport’s heartland. But be warned: this experience is addictive.

From Brussels to Oudenaarde

Oudenaarde made the perfect pilgrimage base. A gothic city an hour from Brussels, it’s home to the Tour of Flanders finish line.

By day, the streets hum with freewheeling hubs. Local cafés host old men sipping morning beers and lycra-clad riders fueling up on macchiatos. Every wall is a resting place for bicycles – relics of steel and the latest carbon-fiber marvels. This is cycling’s mecca, alongside Bourg d’Oisans, Lucca, and Girona. For a first-time visitor, it’s surreal.

That First Flandrian Ride

The morning was crisp, bikes prepped, and our guide, Dries, outlined the route over a second coffee. “We’ll hit the Kwaremont, Paterberg, and Koppenberg, plus a few hidden gems,” he said casually.

I had watched the Flemish Classics religiously, so I was both thrilled and intimidated. Soon, we were rolling out of Oudenaarde, and the first things that struck me were the respect from local drivers, the flawless cycling infrastructure, and how close these legendary climbs were to town.

Scooting along the Schelde River path, I marveled at the sheer number of cyclists using the route—for training, commuting, or pure pleasure. We turned off, passed a cycling-themed BnB, and suddenly, there they were …. cobbles.

Dries led us up the Kwaremont, a short but crucial climb in the Tour of Flanders. “Keep the power on,” he advised as we jolted over the first stones. “Hold speed, and you’ll float over the gaps.”

He was right. Still in the big ring, gloveless like a true Flandrien, I pushed hard and reached the summit in no time.

The ride continued over smooth blacktop marked with De Ronde winners’ names since 1913. We weaved through single-lane roads, past golden wheat fields, and farmhouses where cows watched with mild amusement.

A sharp right turn, and we hit our second cobbled climb – the Paterberg. Just 400m long, but with a brutal 20% gradient, it was a lung-buster. We took a breather at the top, the view no alpine vista, but awe-inspiring nonetheless.

Next came the mighty Koppenberg. Unlike other climbs, its cobbles were particularly gnarly. Strava marked the start, and at 22% gradient, many a rider here succumbs and walks. Grinding up, it was clear—this was pure cycling history.

The Tour of Flanders and CRVV

Beyond the summer cycling paradise, the main event is the Tour of Flanders each April. First held in 1913, it’s a cornerstone of the Spring Classics. Ride these roads, and you’ll see reminders everywhere – winner’s names on the tarmac, route markers, and race memorials.

For a deeper dive, the Centrum De Ronde Van Vlaanderen in Oudenaarde is a must. This cycling shrine features historic memorabilia from the first Ronde to modern-day machines, jerseys, and even team cars. It’s open daily from 10 am to 6 pm, and we’d argue no cycling fan should leave Belgium without visiting.

Flanders’ cycling calendar is packed, from the Ronde van Vlaanderen and Gent-Wevelgem to the Great War Remembrance Sportive. And beyond the brutal bergs, the region offers rich history, medieval cities like Ghent and Bruges, and the somber Flanders Fields – a place of deep Australian significance.

The Four Ks of Flanders

Every cyclist must conquer Flanders’ legendary ‘Four Ks’: the Koppenberg, Kwaremont, Kapelmuur (De Muur), and Kemmelberg.

The Cobbled Climbs of Flanders

They aren’t high-altitude monsters, but these short, sharp ascents are some of Europe’s most revered challenges.

Muur-Kapelmuur
Distance: 0.95km
Ascent: 79m
The legendary Muur van Geraardsbergen tops the 110m Oudenberg. Averaging 9% with a max gradient of 20%, it’s a must-ride. The neo-baroque church at the summit makes for the perfect photo op.

Paterberg
Distance: 0.36km
Ascent: 42m
A modern Tour of Flanders staple, the Paterberg’s brutal 20.33% max gradient and 12% average make it an instant classic.

Kwaremont
Distance: 2.2km
Ascent: 92m
Flanders’ longest cobbled climb, averaging a tame 4% but hitting 11.6% mid-climb. Entirely cobbled, it’s an essential ride.

Koppenberg
Distance: 0.68km
Ascent: 59m
Known as ‘the bump of Melden,’ the Koppenberg is iconic for its treacherous stones and relentless gradient.

Kemmelberg
Distance: 1.4km
Ascent: 90m
At 150m, West Flanders’ highest point boasts a 20% incline and tricky terrain. Newly resurfaced, descending is now safer.

Conquering a cobbled climb in Flanders is a true cyclist’s rite of passage. For more on riding here, visit cyclinginflanders.cc and visitflanders.com.